19 March 2007
Acton, CA
Thousand Trails Solodad Canyon Ground
Dear Friends of Barbara and Charlie (B/C) ...
Back again at Charlie’s urging; this thing keeps getting longer and longer! He now wants me to summarize our reflections on the trip which sort of goes deeper than the trip write-ups, wraps everything up, and high-lights the important stuff as a professor likes to do.
I cautioned him that these are only superficial observations and conclusions of a tourist without access to literature beyond tour books, the media past and present, or conversations with knowledgeable professionals or man in the street. And that his comments really only relate to the Baja south of the border cities of Tijuana and Ensenada. I got him to add this caveat.
To Charlie it seems to boils down to four questions:
ARE WE GLAD THAT WE TOOK THE TRIP? >>YES
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Because it gave us:
...A glimpse into a different Mexico from that of the mainland
...A glimpse of what the Baja will likely become
...Confidence to return to the Baja alone, and know where to go
...Memorable experiences, a few stories, and new friends
WOULD WE DO IT AGAIN? >>NO and YES
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... NO: We have now seen that, done that
... NO: If we are in poor health and/or have only limited mobility, have an older motor home with marginal maintenance, limited experience driving the rig, inflexible with the way Mexicans do or not do things, and travel without emergency air evac insurance
... NO: We wouldn’t return to Cabo San Lucas
... YES: We would return Los Barriles, and Loreto for a longer stay
... YES: Other trips offered by our tour company, Adventure Caravans
... YES: Any trips lead by our wagon masters and tail gunners
DID YOU KNOW WHAT YOU WERE GETTING INTO?
>>NOT ENTIRELY
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... YES: We were familiar with and trusted the tour company
... NO: The roads south of Ensenada:
....... Not only narrow 10’ width but no shoulders and frequent dips and turns that limited your view ahead. However the turns and dips were well signed
....... The roads were really designed for 45-50 mph speed at best with breaking for turns, dips and topes bumps
....... Road construction and maintenance was good
....... Semi’s, tourist buses and class A motor homes are too wide for the road; roads were designed for autos.
....... With everything that went go wrong, our wagon masters and tail gunners were getting us out of fixes daily.
....... Fortunately we didn’t experience a major RV accidents
... NO: Vehicle problems: a broken fuel line break, dislocated wheel stabilizers, a broken windshield, several broken/sheared off side mirrors (on class A), a few RV’s went off the road before they became familiar with their driving (fortunately on road stretches where the off-road was fairly level and they didn‘t tip over)
... NO: Though he had our Lazy Daze well checked out and carried all the suggested spare parts, Charlie still had to replace our RV truck battery in La Paz, which was not a problem, and one of our tires had a slow leak that the tail gunner changed and repaired (tightened a loose valve).
... NO: Apart from the unusual heart attack death and boating accident, several fell and experienced sprains and bruises
... NO: The importance of the experience, organization and performance of the wagon masters and tail gunners. You have to rely upon your tour company for staffing and their selection and training of them. Apparently this varies between companies.
... NO: The importance of caravan driving policy: to allow the caravan to break into small groups of our own organization, separate from others (and CB radio chatter) and drive at our own comfortable speed, and not having to keep closed-up in line and travel at the wagon master pace
WHAT SURPRISED YOU ABOUT THE BAHA? >>LOTS AND LOTS
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The Baja should not be viewed for what it lacks but for what it has achieved in a short period of time and for what the future holds. It is an exciting, upbeat place to visit.
The different culture and history between Baha and mainland Mexico due to its remoteness. It has an old American west feeling of opportunity and can-do community building.
The rate of development by both government and the private sector.
The nuclear power reactor on the Pacific coast the electrification in progress.
Plans to construct from scratch a major deep water port south of Ensenada, and they could do it.
The strong small business culture and development of a tourist industry.
The development of tourist attractions, particularly old Catholic churches.
Cell phone are in common use in towns and cities
The food markets with modern packaging and refrigerated displays, and the considerable hygiene fresh food handlers practice.
The abundant goods and services in pretty remote places.
The military presence with many check points; we received only cursory inspections because we were members of an organized American tour; it lent to your sense of security.
How the world class development at San Lucas was unattractive to us; we all preferred the Mexican towns and cities, something they should keep.
The appeal and beauty of the mountain and coastal landscapes.
The extent of the temperature transition from San Diego (60 degrees) to the tropics at Los Cabos (90 degrees). We didn’t want to return north.
The lack of trash litter in towns and countryside, though there was some on vacant properties.
The helpful, industrious, cheerful, service-oriented people who were very welcoming to tourists.
The evident high rate of employment and reported labor shortages in Los Cabos and La Paz.
The absence of a indigenous Baha weaving and pottery crafts; goods are produced on the mainland and shipped in.
The free public education tradition and interest in higher education.
The absence of begging children; the government now discourages it.
Dogs seemed to be fed and well cared for.
An “American Hospital” in Cabo San Lucas where staff speak English.
Every town seems to have an ambulance, but emergency staff appear to need training.
The commonness of flush toilets; still bring your own toilet paper.
The use of thatched roofs on homes and public buildings.
The absence of Montezuma’s Revenge from the water or vegetables.
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This about wraps it up. I can’t say that I’ve fully enjoyed writing all this with Charlie looking over my shoulder, it was a lot of work and it disrupted my sleep time. Sort of in compensation, I would appreciate an email acknowledging that you got the emails, any glowing tribute to my literary efforts (or suggestions for improvement), and if you want to hear about the forthcoming Highway 66 odyssey? Hope to hear from you.
Your ever humble reporter,
“Yeah, right!” Charlie appends
Humphrey for Charlie and Barbara
